Reviews - Zoos outside Europe

The opening on 10 May 1972 of San Diego Zoo Safari Park, or San Diego Wild Animal Park as it was called at first, was a dream coming true for Charles Schroeder, San Diego Zoo's director at the time. He envisioned the zoo of the future, one where people - rather than animals - would be enclosed. It would be a breeding ground to populate the world's zoos without depopulating the wild. It would be a new kind of zoo where animals live in large spaces and feel more freedom than any other zoo. And it would be a conservation ground where people do all they can to save species from extinction¹.

Did Schroeder succeeded, was the question I had in mind while entering the grounds in the early morning of a beautiful day in May 2013. My answer would be, yes he did. He dreamt the right dream and created a zoo that evolved into place that could be considered the intermediate form between a regular zoo and a nature reserve. Indeed, a place that can not only serve as a captive breeding ground for zoo populations, but also as an ark for endangered species, with a possibility even to repopulate the wild perhaps. Which is the ultimate dream of a conservationist, of course. In my honest and humble opinion I would say this is how every zoo should be. A zoo that provide excellent shelter for endangered species; that create an environment in which savannah-dwelling species can roam over large distances; and that features mixed-species exhibits with a variety of hoofstock species in large herds, offered plenty of space to interact and get out of each others way as well. To cover the grounds and see it all you are facing a strenuous but rewarding day. But for those who want to have a more relaxed visit, you can have a comfortable seat in the shadow on the viewing deck of the café/snack bar on stilts while overlooking the African plains - seeing the giraffes and other hoofed animals passing by in the distance. You can sit there for hours and imagine yourself being in Africa on a luxurious safari trip. Indeed, why go to Africa, since this is a cheaper and less polluting trip than taking the plane to Kenia for instance.

An even more interesting view on the Safari Park grounds is from above with the balloon safari. It gives you a bird eye's view from about 120 metres while standing in a basket under a helium balloon, modelled after the hot air balloon tours of the Serengeti.

To get acquainted with the size of San Diego Zoo Safari Park (from now on called Safari Park) I first embark on the Africa tram that runs along the African Plains. From the tram you get a different angle on the premises while at the same time the tram driver provides basic information and peculiarities about the Safari Park. For instance, the Californian mule deer is a notorious freeloader. It is an indigenous species that is widespread throughout northern and central California, and clever enough to enter the fenced off African Plains to get easy access to food. Here you see it in the enclosure of the black rhinoceroses, shot from inside the tram:

They go to great lengths to provide all of the species a native and naturalistic habitat. For instance, as part of this process of creating naturalistic habitats the area that represents Central Africa comprises more trees and other vegetation than the 24 hectare area for southern Africa, which has a drier environment - in other words more dirt and dust.

Besides the naturalistic design of the enclosures there are many mixed species exhibits, comprising species of similar geographically origin. Such exhibits provide behavioural enrichment simply because the animals have to interact. The most impressive mixed-species exhibit is of course the African Plains that comprise: East African sitatunga; Nile lechwe; Lake Victoria Defassa waterbuck; southern white rhinoceros; fringe-eared oryx; giraffe; Grant's gazelle; Thomson's gazelle; Kenya impala; yellow-billed stork; marabou stork and East African crowned crane.

The signage at the enclosures is similar to the information panels used in San Diego Zoo, which means that it provide basic information on geographical range, habitat and conservation status. But nothing is mentioned on these panels about feeding behaviour and reproduction. However, at the Safari Park there are additional panels that provide particular information for the real enthusiasts.

Though many animals are housed in bar-less mixed-species exhibits, there are a few exceptions. Predators do not mix very well with prey animals, of course, so they are housed in single-species enclosures. However, the success of mixing animals is unpredictable and depends on individual temperament and sometimes trivial things regarding enclosure design. Let alone, trying to keep different species in one enclosure. All in all, gorillas and some hoofed animal species are kept in separate enclosures as well.

After the tram ride I start my visit at the Lion Camp along the African loop trail. The Kruger lion (Panthera leo krugeri) pride has an excellent view on prey species from its exhibit. The distance to the prey species in the adjacent enclosure is safe though, so the prey animals will not get nervous from being within hunting range of the three lions, one male and two females. It is a marvellous exhibit: undulating multilevel grounds, with a dry moat at two-thirds of the perimeter, several trees, grassy bedding, and a derelict four wheel drive car as an enrichment feature. The backside of the car is the perfect shelter for a nap, the favourite activity of big cats.

Following the African loop trail from there I arrive at the cheetah enclosure. Considering the space available, and what is available for many other species, the size of the cheetah enclosure is rather disappointing. Especially when compared to the much larger enclosures I have seen for this graceful big cat at for instance Hilvarenbeek Zoo and Nesles Zoo. Although the animals are allowed to exercise during their daily Cheetah Run, I think they deserve a much larger enclosure. The grassy enclosure is elongated with a dry moat all around the perimeter. A few trees provide the shade the cheetahs need on sunny days, but there's no elevated part in the enclosure that could be regarded as an observation post. Nevertheless, as an enrichment feature the cats can see their natural prey - the Thomson's gazelle - in the enormous adjacent paddock of the African Plains.

The next stop on my route is the beautiful lake with flamingos and the island for black-and-white colobus monkey. It is an absolute delight crossing the lake via the elevated wooden boardwalk and arriving at the rather extraordinary mixed-species exhibit for bat-eared foxes (Otocyon megalotis) and southern warthog (Phacochoerus africanus sundevallii). It is a nice large exhibit with a slightly undulating landscape and on one side a clay wall as if the enclosure has been excavated. There are a few mud pools for the warthog, trees, rocks, and other features.

While the IUCN conservation status of most species along the African loop trail is at the most Vulnerable, at the end of the African loop trail you'll find an Endangered species, the okapi. Its enclosure looks like it has been excavated just like the one for the warthogs and foxes. It's a large exhibit with lots of trees and shade. The group of southern gerenuk (Litocranius walleri walleri) across from the okapi exhibit and close to the Lion Camp, seems to be a successful breeding group - like many herds of hoofstock species in the Safari Park.

Before moving on to the African elephants and the sole Asian predator species in this zoo, the Sumatran tiger, I have a look at the Gorilla Forest. It is situated close to the entrance where the western lowland gorilla group of 7 individuals have access to a small elongated enclosure with a wide and deep dry moat at the public's side. An artificial rock face rear wall with some caves give shelter from the elements, especially the sun. A small waterfall from the top of the rock face makes it all more attractive.

The Safari Park houses 13 African elephants. Their adult elephants came from two wildlife reserves in Swaziland. These reserves were losing ground and other places had no room to allow relocation of some animals. Therefore, the reserve managers felt they had no other choice than to schedule a kill to reduce the number of elephants. San Diego Zoo and Florida's Lowry Park Zoo asked to bring some of the elephants to the United States, and as a result the kill was called off. Since the adults came to the Safari Park 12 calves were born up till the date of my visit in 2013. The elephants have two large enclosures at their disposal with grassy, sandy grounds and both have a pool. There are several viewing platforms where you can see the big pachyderms in their somewhat undulating landscape with trees and buildings designed to provide shade.

From the African elephants I move on to the single section where Asian species can be found. Here they keep two female specimens of the Critically Endangered Sumatran tiger (born 05.10.2010). Construction works are ongoing for a Tiger trail to be ready in 2014. This suggests that it is going to be even greater than it is already. The current enclosure does not necessarily resembles a densely forested jungle, which is what comes to my mind when thinking of Sumatra and tigers. But it is a huge enclosure with trees, grass, dry soil and a small pool. The trees are an enrichment feature because they are not protected from common scratching behaviour of the two big cats. There are several wooden platforms, besides some large boulders, to be used as resting and observation posts. The enclosure is situated down in the valleywith the viewing platforms for the visitors positioned on one hillside. Here you have an excellent view on the enclosure beneath (see video).

Along the condor trail to the California condor exhibit at the highest point of the Safari Park grounds in the valley, the bald eagles aviary can be found. It is somewhat small compared to the bald eagles aviaries at Santa Barbara Zoo and San Diego Zoo. These raptors have been injured in the wild and are not able to fly anymore. So, according to the information panel at the enclosure the aviary gives the birds ample room to move about and exercise safely.

Next door the ocelot is one of the few species that stand out because they do not fit in the Safari Park's geographical focus on African and Asian savannah. The ocelots are housed in two separate enclosures with vegetation that provides plenty of shade, but additional access to a pool would have been great. Apart from the various aviaries, including the bat house, this is more or less the only enclosure that is not built according the old Hagenbeck principle - without bars. Trees and trunks offer climbing enrichment, and multilevel platforms fulfil other felid's needs.

By the way, according the Safari Park website they currently (2015) do not keep ocelot anymore, but another South American species, the coati.

The two California condors in their exhibit at the highest point of the Safari Park grounds have great views on the surrounding area, including on the next-door bighorn sheep, a carrion species for the condor. The large condor aviary - wire mesh all around - allows free flight and it contains trees and a couple of boulders right in the middle for roosting. Wild condors maintain a large home range, often travelling 250 km a day in search of carrion, so no matter how large the aviary it will be never suitable. But as part of the captive breeding programme that has succeeded to return captive bred condors in the wild, such aviaries are exactly why this welfare impairment is acceptable in my opinion, for the greater good so to speak.

Giant large bar-less enclosures are set as the standard at the Safari Park, and the ones that yet have to meet these standards, would look fine in many other zoos. So, it's all relative.

(¹: Mister Zoo, the life and legacy of Dr. Charles Schroeder by Douglas G. Myers, 1999)

Ex-situ and in-situ conservation

Regarding the realm of Charles Schroeder dreams the breeding and conservation track record of the Safari Park shows lots of successes. They have kept a crash of southern white rhinos right from the start and their success has been so dramatic that to this day the image of this species is the Park's symbol. To date they also keep northern white rhinos, while they have bred 14 black rhinoceroses, a U.S. national record at the time.

About fifty years ago the California condor was facing extinction and it was finally decided in 1982 - when only 22 birds remained in the wild - that all the remaining condors would be brought in for protection and captive breeding. The Safari Park was one of the zoos to take part in the California Condor Recovery Project, which became one of the best examples of recovery programmes of endangered species. In 1991 they started to release captive-bred condors into their native habitat, and nearly half of the condors alive today were hatched at the Safari Park. It has not been the intention of the Park to exhibit the California condors, and limited display didn't start before 2000.

Regarding cheetah conservation it must be said that the Safari Park had one of the first cheetah births in captivity since the 1950s. And even of that litter of three only one survived, because two were killed by the male that sired the litter. Off-exhibit research at the Park, mainly human observation, has delivered relevant knowledge to the zoo community and captive breeding of cheetah.

The Arabian oryx is one of the paramount examples of a species that have gone extinct in the wild due to excessive hunting, and was reintroduced into its original habitat - the Arabian peninsula - thanks to captive breeding in zoos worldwide. And the Safari Park has been and still is contributing to the reintroduction programme of the Arabian oryx. As a matter of fact the Arabian oryx was the first species which the Safari Park attempted to reintroduce in the wild.

San Diego Zoo is involved in many more ex-situ and in-situ conservation programmes worldwide. The Safari Park, for instance is a proud partner of the Save the Tasmanian Devil Program, based in Tasmania. The program collaborates with research institutes and zoos from around the world to save the endangered Tasmanian devil.

Sumatran tiger cub born September 2015 is being hand-reared

A single male Sumatran tiger (Panthera tigris sumatrae) cub was born 14 September at the San Diego Zoo Safari Park's Tull Family Tiger Trail, to first-time tiger parents Teddy and Joanne. Although Joanne cared for the cub the first few days, keepers noticed he was losing weight, and felt he wasn't receiving the proper care he needed to thrive. The Safari Park's animal care team then made the difficult decision to hand-rear the cub. He was moved to the Ione and Paul Harter Animal Care Center at the Safari Park, where he is now being cared for around the clock.

The cub is the 26th endangered Sumatran tiger to be born at the Safari Park, and he is the first cub to be hand-reared at the park since 1984. At the care center, he's being bottle fed seven times a day - with a formula made especially for carnivores that is easy to digest, made from goats' milk.

“We're very happy with our little cub's progress; he took to the bottle and started nursing right away,” said Lissa McCaffree, lead keeper, Mammal department. “He's been gaining weight very consistently each day, and last night he reached a milestone - he opened his eyes for the first time.”

The cub now weighs 1.5 kg and is gaining strength in his legs, walking around his nursery enclosure. He's also learning to make tiger vocalizations, such as meows, grunts, and low chuffing sounds. Chuffing is a vocalization tigers make as a way to express excitement, or as a greeting.

With the addition of this tiny cub, the Safari Park is now (Autumn 2015) home to seven Sumatran tigers. There are fewer than 350 Sumatran tigers in the wild, and that number continues to drop. Scientists estimate that this species could be extinct in its native Sumatra by 2020, unless measures are taken to protect and preserve it.

Tigers face many challenges in the wild, from loss of habitat to conflicts with humans, but the biggest threat continues to be poaching. Tigers are killed by poachers who illegally sell tiger body parts, mostly for folk remedies. People can help protect wild tigers by avoiding products made with non-sustainable palm oil, an industry that harms tiger habitat, and by refusing to purchase items made from endangered wildlife.

(Source: San Diego Zoo news, 23 and 29 September 2015)

Some additional information, such as contact details and involvement in breeding programmes.

directions to San Diego Zoo Safari Park

Address:
15500 San Pasqual Valley Road
Escondido
California
United States of America

public transport

by train and bus

From San Diego

• To get to San Diego Santa Fe Depot Transit Center check out the Amtrak website.
• From the SD Santa Fe Depot Transit Center take bus 235 towards Escondido Transit Center, which is the hub to get to the Safari Park by public transport.
• Then take bus 371 towards Ramona early morning (bus 372 in midday by reservation - call 855 844 1454), alight at Hwy 78 & Zoo rd, which is a one minute walk from the Safari Park entrance; this bus service does not operate on Saturdays, Sundays and Holidays.

Schedule your trip on SD Metropolitan Transit System.

From Los Angeles

Please use the trip planner of North County Transit District

by bicycle

When you really want to use your bicycle to get to the Safari Park and you have already found your way to Escondido it is neither hard or difficult to get to the Park. Just remember that you will not find dedicated cycle paths on the route, you will have to share the road with cars, trucks and buses. Google maps can help you plan a route (for instance this one).

by car

From the North

• From Interstate 5 (Orange County, Los Angeles), take the State Route 78 East exit at Oceanside, proceed east to Interstate 15 South, exit at Via Rancho Parkway (Exit 27) and follow the signs to the Park.
• From Interstate 15 (Riverside), exit at Via Rancho Parkway (Exit 27) and follow the signs east to the Park.

From the South

• From State Route 163 (downtown San Diego, Mission Valley) proceed to Interstate 15 North to the Via Rancho Parkway exit (Exit 27). Go east and follow signs to the Park.
• From Interstate 5 or 805 (Mexico), proceed to State Route 163, then to Interstate 15 North, and then exit at Via Rancho Parkway (Exit 27). Follow signs east.

From the East

• From Interstate 8 (Imperial County, Arizona) take Interstate 15 North to the Via Rancho Parkway exit (Exit 27). Follow the signs east to the Park.

Unfortunately parking is not free of charge for non-members, $12 per vehicle, $17 for RV parking. Diamond Club membership and up receives free parking: all other members receive a $3 discount with valid ID. Preferred parking is available on weekends and holidays for an additional $15.

Download the zoo map here.