(V)IPs Zoos

It is on a beautiful day of a perfect Indian summer that I visit the Parc Merveilleux - the zoo that started as a theme park based on the concept of a fairytale park and has been in existence for more than 50 years. It is now a combination of a zoo and a fairytale park, and therefore still targets families with young children, as many zoos do anyway.

Although not much to my liking I admit that the playground attractions do not interfere too much with the zoological grounds. In fact, many zoos provide children play structures scattered around the premises nowadays. Even the miniature train is not unfamiliar entertainment in zoos. It is just a bit more frequent that you encounter these playgrounds here at the Parc Merveilleux, and perhaps a bit more off topic. Because where else do you find an extensive fairytale park, miniature golf, a miniature car course and the option to ride a fake plastic pony in the 'pony-express', at a zoo. Fortunately there is an educational playground as well, where children can become acquainted with different aspects of nature and the animal world through play. So, yes there's a lot of kids entertainment, and another yes for me not appreciating that an awful lot. But how about the zoological facilities and qualities?

When I turn right after the entrance a row of large aviaries appear with African bird species, such as the spotted eagle-owl and the grey parrot, leading to an enclosure for black-and-white ruffed lemur and one for brown lemur (Eulemur fulvus) and white-fronted lemur (Eulemur albifrons). The latter was formerly considered a subspecies of the brown lemur, but was later raised to species level. Currently there is significant hybridization between the brown and white-fronted lemur over a wide area in Madagascar¹, something that can happen here as well in the Parc Merveilleux, if they allow these species to breed. Both the lemur enclosures are fenced off all around with wire mesh and contain many tree trunks and ropes, while vegetation is restricted to grass. From these lemurs I follow the footpath into the walk-through Mahajanga building with a habitat representing Western Madagascan fauna and flora. The landscape is modelled after Tsingy National Park with its typical vertical rocks. It's a hot but not very moist environment that allows for close encounters to happen. For instance with bird species such as the hamerkop and the red fody (Foudia madagascariensis), but not with the Madagascar ground boa (Acrantophis dumerili) though . The boardwalk is playfully undulating through the building, crossing the stream and leading to a cave that serves as a nocturnal house with Egyptian fruit bats (see video) and lesser hedgehog tenrec (Echinops telfairi). The tenrec² is endemic to Madagascar, but the bat³ is definitely not. The upstairs balcony leads to one of the other access points of the building, also to be reached by elevator, making it wheelchair accessible. In fact, except for the children play structures, the entire Zoo is wheelchair friendly. This is probably due to the 'Association des Parents d'Enfants Mentalement Handicapés', an organisation for parents of children with intellectual disabilities, which is the major shareholder of the Parc Merveilleux. The balcony gives access to an elevated boardwalk that crosses the outdoor ring-tailed lemur enclosure of about 10 metres high, which has plenty of enrichment features to simulate a Madagascan forest - unsuccessfully. Sacred ibis are the lemur's neighbours and housed in a similar exhibit, without the ropes of course.

At this side of the Mahajanga building one of the highlights of the African section, and in my opinion of the entire zoo, can be found - the brand new Barbary macaque exhibit. Not only because the 10 macaques that inhabit the enclosure have been seized from wildlife traffickers, but also because of its size. The huge open-top enclosure contains an enormous tree that is accessible for the monkeys. Together with several boulders this provide some resemblance to the macaques' original habitat of the Atlas mountains in Morocco and Algeria. More African species, especially birds, can be found in and around two ponds in this section. One of the ponds is surrounded by a large meadow with trees and bamboo, and houses yellow-billed stork, red-crowned crane, pink-backed pelican and some duck species. The other one is surrounded by the track of the miniature train. This mixed species exhibit comprises birds from three continents: greater flamingo and mallard from Africa, magpie goose from Australia and Muscovy duck from South America. Also at this side of the Zoo grounds, opposite the railway track, a beautiful enclosure that looks as if it is just a fenced off part of the original forest provides a home for the black-backed jackal. Their most common social unit is a monogamous pair, so it is not strange that I spot only one in the exhibit with lots of trees and other type of vegetation. Moreover, the animals can hide from too loud or persistent presence of visitors, because there are two heaps of boulders as well.

Further along this side of the footpath I pass a row of small enclosures with several bird species from South America, such as the guira cuckoo, burrowing owl and sun conure. Additionally, two mammal species can be found here, the Cuban hutia, and the black lemur from Madagascar. All of these exhibits fail to impress me. A much larger aviary at the end of the row, with roosting facilities, a rock face rear wall with small platforms and a grassy substrate, looks more modern, but is still too small for the occupancy by southern caracara and great curassow. A bird of prey like the caracara requires much more space to fly around and show natural behaviour. The same counts for the smaller aviary around the corner that comprises black vulture and turkey vulture.

After a quick lunch at the excellent restaurant opposite Amazonia, the Zoo's other walk-through building, I am about to be surprised. Not only due to the free roaming lizards and common marmosets or free-flying birds in there, but also because it houses not only animals from the tropical rainforest in South America, but penguins as well. Moreover, African species can be found here. The common marmosets have access, via plants and ropes, to most parts of the building including dry ground around the beautiful and large fish tanks. Their walkways are probably all situated just beneath the ceiling, although I cannot confirm this, because I haven't seen any of them. The Peruvian squirrel monkeys, however, will have trouble to be invisible, because they cannot hide when on display in the small indoor enclosure. Though it contains many enrichment features it still looks poor when compared to other zoos, such as London Zoo, Odense Zoo and Apenheul Primate park where the squirrel monkeys can roam around in a great outdoor forest.

As said earlier Amazonia is also the place where some Humboldt penguins paddle around in their small pool. They are kept outdoors, but can only be viewed from inside the building. From the Amazonia complex there is a throughway to a similar but much smaller building called the Savannah. It contains a mixed-species exhibit with fennec fox and African spurred tortoise in a desert-like habitat - sand, heat and rock - behind glass, while another exhibit has the inevitable meerkats on display (see video).

After exiting the Amazonia building the Americas continue with species from North America. But the raccoon and North American beaver have, to my surprise, the Prince Alfred or Visayan spotted deer (Rusa alfredi) from the Philippines as a neighbour. The deer enclosure is quite a large paddock surrounded by trees. It appears that the deer is the odd one out in the America section, because the adjacent enclosure houses South American coati. This relative of the raccoon doesn't have a lot to explore in the enclosure with a schematic dull design. This side of the Zoo borders the natural forest and is very spacious and the large mixed-species exhibit with South American species is impressive. The large slightly undulating ground with several trees provide the mara and guanaco ample space to roam around freely. I wish, however, that the semiaquatic capybara - the world's largest rodent - will have access to a much larger pool in the future.

The aviaries of old-fashioned design that follow contain the transition from the South American section to Oceania, with macaws on one side and kookaburra and kea on the other side. The New Zealand kea (Nestor notabilis), the world's only alpine parrot, currently faces the threat of extinction, which could make captive breeding programmes essential for its survival in the near future. The kea, being the clown among the parrots, is a very curious and cheeky bird that needs to be provided with a lot of enrichment to satisfy its natural curiosity. Here at Parc Merveilleux the kea have their own motor cycle to demolish . Other species from Down Under in this section are the Cape Barren goose, Bennett's wallaby and the dingo (Canis lupus dingo). These Australian wild canines are kept in a fenced off area of forest with vegetation in front of the fences to provide them privacy.

The final enclosure I have a look at before leaving the Zoo is the enormous area for fallow deer, a common deer species that is native to western Eurasia but has been introduced by man in habitats all over the world.

Conclusion
There are not many modern bar-less enclosures or immersion exhibits to be found at Parc Merveilleux. Personally, I am not interested in the close encounter experience or the fake idea of having been on safari. Animal welfare and expression of natural behaviour must be safeguarded to allow a zoo animal having a chance to contribute to the survival of the species, that's my motto. Therefore I believe a fence is not per se a bad manner of separating man and animal. The park layout is continental-based with the focus on Africa, including Madagascar, and South America. The current animal collection is a mixture of several rare endangered species and species that are more common and of which its conservation value lies in raising awareness about the importance of biodiversity. When considering the large number of fairytale exhibits and children playgrounds at the Parc Merveilleux, I think visitors - and even children - can still admire the marvels of nature in this surprisingly nice zoo. Even when there are no elephants, giraffes, tigers or other large animals to see.

¹ Source: the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species

² Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec (Echinops telfairi) - Encyclopedia of Life

³ Egyptian Fruit Bat (Rousettus egyptiacus) - Encyclopedia of Life

directions to Parc Merveilleux

Parc Merveilleux is located just south of Luxembourg City in the small town of Bettembourg.

Address:
Route de Mondorf
L-3260
Bettembourg
Luxembourg

public transport

Domestic, which is local, public transport in Luxembourg is rather cheap. For only € 4,- you can buy a ticket that is valid for a full day. Available at vending machines at railway stations, some bus stops and kiosks.

by train

From Luxembourg City main railway station, which seems the obvious starting point of any trip by train in Luxembourg, there are trains to Bettembourg about every 15 minutes. From Bettembourg station it is an easy stroll of about 15 minutes to Parc Merveilleux in south-western direction. Just leave the station towards the bus station, then walk to Route de Mondorf which is the road that runs along the Parc and starts where the buses leave the small bus station. The route is signposted for cars.

Routeplanner and timetables for trains in Luxembourg are available here.

by bus

Or you can take bus No. 304 which starts and ends at the Bettembourg bus station and has an intermediate stop at Parc Merveilleux (after a three minute ride). The bus runs every half hour, except on Sundays.

For a routeplanner and timetable of bus 304 check here.

by bicycle

Unlike in the northern part of Luxembourg where the roads that have been built in the hilly landscape can be quite steep, the roads south of Luxembourg City are almost flat. So, when you stay in Luxembourg City or at one of the campsites south of the City it is an fairly easy ride of about 15 km to Parc Merveilleux. There is a small bicycle rack in front of the entrance building to park your bike.

by car

From Trier to Luxembourg:

Take the A1 to Luxembourg, then the A3 to Metz. Just before the French border take the exit to Saarbrücken (A13). At the roundabout before motorway A13 take the N13 to Bettembourg. After about 500 metres you will arrive at the Park entrance.

From Saarbrücken to Luxembourg:

Take the motorway E29/A8/A13 to Luxembourg. At the roundabout at the end of the motorway take the N13 to Bettembourg. After about 500 metres you will arrive at the Park entrance.

From Brussels to Luxembourg:

Take the E411 to Arlon, at the main motorway junction near Arlon follow the E25 to Luxembourg, next the E25/A6 to Luxembourg City. Then the A3 to Metz. Just before the French border take the exit to Saarbrücken (A13). At the roundabout before motorway A13 take the N13 to Bettembourg. After about 500 metres you will arrive at the Park entrance.

Parking is free.

Download the zoo map here.

An interactive zoo map can be found here.